Introduction:
I am going to keep this one short and sweet. Breakfasting in Melbourne is a Melbournians pastime. In fact I have heard that more people go out for breakfast in Melbourne than dinner. Chefs’ reputations now hang on perfect poached eggs and the ability to amalgamate a host of ingredients and still be able to call it breakfast. I’m a massive breakfast fan and on weekends my family and I indulge in breakfast either at a trendy little café or by creating something adventurous in the comfort of our humble abode.
This is my contribution from the weekend just gone; it’s inspiration came from the beautiful rainbow trout I procured the other day, the new asparagus season and my other half’s surreptitious predilection for Hollandaise – then again who doesn’t have one?
Rainbow Trout on Asparagus topped with a Poached Egg and Hollandaise Sauce
Ingredients
For the Trout:
■ 1 fillet from a 1 kg rainbow trout | Scaled, filleted and pin-boned if you buy the fish whole, otherwise about a 250g fillet with skin on.
■ 2 tbsp. grapeseed oil | You can use groundnut oil or any oil that has a neutral flavour.
■ 15g butter | I use Lescure French butter, but any good butter is great.
■ seasoning of sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper |
For the Asparagus:
■ 8 large stems asparagus |
For the Poached Eggs:
■ 2 very fresh large eggs | The fresher the eggs (free range) the less vinegar you will need in the pan. Sometimes I find chefs over ‘vinegar’ the water and the egg tastes acetic.
■ 1-2 tbsp. white vinegar per litre of water | Depending on how fresh your eggs are.
For the Hollandaise:
■ 30ml rice wine vinegar | Or white vinegar.
■ 1 tsp. sea salt |
■ sprinkle freshly cracked black pepper |
■ 1 tsp. cold water |
■ 2 egg yolks from large eggs | Fresh of course. And free range.
■ 150g Butter | Lescure French butter again.
■ seasoning of sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper |
Method
Remove the tail from the trout and cut the fillet in to two equal rectangles. Season with sea salt.
For the poached eggs: the great thing about poached eggs is that they can be prepared in advance and then warmed up prior to serving. In to a wide deep pan add the vinegar and about 1-2 litres of water (I use 2 tbsp. of vinegar in 2 litres of water). The vinegar is used to help prevent the egg white from spreading (clouding). I am going to write a post about this soon, with a bit of science as well. But for now, bring the water and vinegar to just below simmering - I like to call it a murmur. Gently swirl the water. Put each egg in to a separate cup, making sure to keep the yolks intact. Carefully pour the first egg in to the pan, and then the second, ensuring that the whites encapsulate each yolk. The eggs will take 2-3 minutes to cook - ensure that the white is cooked and the yolk is soft. Carefully remove the eggs from the pan and then dip them in iced water to stop the cooking process. Put them aside for later.
In a pan large enough to hold the asparagus bring water to the boil and then reduce it to a simmer. Break away the woody ends from the bottom of the asparagus stems (they will have a natural snapping point) and then add the asparagus to the boiling water. Simmer until the asparagus is just starting to give way but still shows a little resistance when prodded with a sharp knife (about 5-7 minutes). Remove the asparagus from the water when cooked and place in a small baking dish or on a plate. Cover the asparagus with foil to keep them warm. Take the water off the heat but retain it – we will warm the poached eggs in it.
There are lots of recipes out there for Hollandaise sauce. My advice is to treat it with care and never leave its side and you'll have a great result.
Start by adding 30ml of rice wine vinegar (or white vinegar) to a small pan with a teaspoon of sea salt and a sprinkle of freshly cracked pepper. Bring to the boil and reduce by half.
Prepare a bain marie or similar. I use a pan of water barely on the simmer and a metal bowl sitting over the pan (not touching the water otherwise the eggs will coagulate and be scrambled).
Add the reduced vinegar to the metal bowl; add the 1 tsp. of cold water and then the egg yolks. Whisk until smooth and then place the bowl over the pan of just simmering water. Now add a cube of butter. Whisk continuously until the butter has melted and repeat this process until all the butter has been added, at which point you will have a thick sauce. Add the lemon juice and stir until smooth and then season with salt and black pepper according to your taste. Remove the bowl containing the Hollandaise from the pan of simmering water and set aside. At the last moment you can put the bowl back on the pan, and whilst whisking you can warm up the Hollandaise before serving (only if you need to).
In a skillet or frying pan heat the oil and butter until bubbling. Place the trout skin-side down in the pan and then fry for a couple of minutes, turn and fry for a further minute . The key is keep watch and feel the texture of the fish until it is only just cooked - no longer. Remove the fish from the pan and drain on kitchen paper (skin-side down). Season the flesh side with cracked black pepper.
Working quickly, warm the poached eggs by gently placing them in the water that the asparagus was cooked in; the hot water will warm the eggs. After about 20 seconds lift the eggs out of the water, drain them and then serve immediately.
To construct the dish, line 4 stems of asparagus side by side on each plate. Place the rainbow trout on the asparagus, and then carefully place the poached egg on the trout. Finally, drizzle the Hollandaise sauce over the asparagus, trout and poached egg. Bon appétit.
2 comments
Absolutely gorgeous, Nick! We do love our weekend breakfasts too! Looking forward to your poached egg post – I am enjoying reading McGee! x
Thanks Lin. McGee is great isn’t he.