Introduction:
This recipe marries two incredible entities; the classic French dish of Bourguignon and the sumptuously meaty flavour of beef cheeks, or joues de boeuf.
The Bourguignon first: although associated primarily with beef, the term à la Bourguignonne is a general one for anything that is cooked in red wine e.g. meat, fish, sautéed chicken and poached eggs. It is often served garnished with button mushrooms, baby onions and a good dose of fatty bacon lardons. Most famously though the term is associated with the regional fare of Burgundy. I recently asked a Frenchman here in Melbourne what wine he uses in his Boeuf Bourguignon, as Australia has an incredible selection of good wine.
He looked at me and went “puh…Côte-du-Rhone naturellement!” I couldn’t really argue, mainly because my French was not up to scratch. And in truth, French wine is pretty darn good.
So, beef cheeks? They are very much an underrated carnivorous offering that are often dismissed due to a misjudged perception that they are not going to be good to eat or to lack of patience in the hours needed to tenderise them.
The cheeks are not the most enticing of lookers; well not until they are trimmed. They are literally the cheeks of the cow and as such do an incredible amount of work during a bovine’s life-time. All the chewing and grinding of fresh grass and cud leaves these muscles incredibly tough and potentially nuclear resistant. However, this is a signal for those in the know that we are looking at a phenomenal taste profile if a little patience and technique is applied. If you have a penchant to smell real beef then smell a fresh beef cheek; it’s carnivorous nectar.
In this recipe I curl the cheeks in half and tie them. Once cooked and untied they retain this wonderful shape.
So on to beef cheek Bourguignon – there is not much of a story behind this; no sabbatical to the depths of Burgundy, for example. This dish came about simply by the love of beef cheeks and cooking à la Bourguignonne, and how desperate I was to try the two together. Bon appétit.