Today we’re going to make the classic Catalan sauce that once you taste it you’ll never look back. It’s versatile, incredible tasty and is a celebration of the Mediterranean
Romesco sauce encompasses everything from Patience Gray to Ferran Adrià – from rusticity to eloquence ,from rural life to the cutting edge of cuisine – this sauce has it all.
My first encounter with this sauce was from Patience Gray’s iconic 1986 book ‘Honey from a Weed’. In the book Patience says that is essentially known as the Catalan fisherman’s sauce in which fish or meat is normally cooked. Its base is roasted red pepper, nuts – usually almonds or hazelnuts – and tomatoes. Other ingredients are added, but in Patience Grey’s words:
The variations of this sauce are legion, secrecy surrounds the method and there is no common agreement among the fisherman or cooks about its creation.
What I have discovered though is the sauce’s versatility – I often serve it with roasted Spanish marinated pork neck – but it is also equally adept at being served with water crackers and a good aged Manchego. Nikki Sengit summed it up beautifully in her book ‘Lateral Cooking’:
A good romesco achieves a perfect poise between sweetness, sharpness and a deep nut-buttery savouriness that elevates roast meat, fish or vegetables to truly awe-inspiring heights of deliciousness.
What I bring to you today is the version that I make at home – I don’t have a woodfire, as Patience did in her time in Catalonia, so the peppers, garlic and tomatoes are oven roasted – roasting still imparts wonderful flavour though. And the garlic should just ooze out of those skins; it does add a terrific depth to the sauce. The sauce is pepped up with some red wine vinegar (I use raspberry red wine vinegar – sherry vinegar is more commonly used, however), chilli powder for that original Catalan heat and some smoked paprika to bring it closer to that woodfire taste. And with that said, let’s get cooking.
Romesco Sauce
Ingredients
1 bulb garlic
3 large red peppers – capsicum
2 medium ripe tomatoes
75g blanched almonds – skins removed
75g hazelnuts (skins removed*)
1 slice slightly stale bread
1 pinch hot chilli powder
1 pinch smoked paprika
100ml red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar
180ml olive oil
Method
Preheat an oven to 200 °C / 390°F.
Drizzle a little olive in a roasting tin and put in the oven to heat up.
Remove the core and seeds from the red peppers and cut each one in half lengthways.
Remove the roasting tin from the oven and carefully place in two whole tomatoes, the red pepper halves and a bulb of garlic. Drizzle over some olive oil and put in the oven for about 40 minutes; the garlic should be soft inside, the skins of the red peppers should be blackening and the skins of the tomatoes peeling.
In the meantime cover the base of a heavy based frying pan with olive oil and heat over medium heat until hot, but not smoking. Add the almonds and hazelnuts and fry until turning golden. Drain on paper towel. In the same pan with the remaining oil fry the sliced bread until brown and crispy. Drain and cut in to cubes.
When the roasting of the peppers, garlic and tomatoes is done put the peppers in a plastic bag, tie and leave for 5 minutes and then remove. The skins should peel off easily.
Remove the skins from the tomatoes.
When cool enough, squeeze the soft garlic from the skins. The tomato, red pepper and garlic skins can then be discarded.
Now put the toasted blanched almonds, toasted hazelnuts, fried bread cubes, roasted tomatoes, roasted peppers, chilli powder, smoked paprika and sea salt in a food processor and process until puréed – the resulting purée should have some nutty texture still (that’s what we are after). With the food processor running slowly add the the red wine/ sherry vinegar and then drizzle in the 180ml of olive oil. Add more sea salt if required and process to incorporate. You have just made the classic sauce, Romesco!
Additional Notes
*Note: To remove the hazelnut skins, wrap in a clean tea towel and massage them together. Unwrap the tea towel and the most of the skins should have been removed.