Introduction:
Ever come across ‘experts’ gesticulating over their food to the degree that you want them just to enjoy eating it rather than go through what sometimes can be seen as some elaborate mating ritual…mmm, yes, I can detect a mmm, subtle hint of toasted melon with a mmm, yes underlying palate of macerated yak droppings, nicely finished with a yes…mmm, let me cogitate further…mmm, yes a definite nuance of tea-smoked elderflower. Not bad for a piece of toast, hey?
I have, in the past, often struggled to take seriously those that described their food as ‘earthy’. I mean who did their research? Some poor student chef gulping down handfuls of sodden earth under the careful direction of their mentor,
Does it remind you of anything?
The student is thinking ‘yes, death’ but says
yes chef, truffle, mushroom, carrots…so earthy.
In essence I jest. I now, in my infinite wisdom (ahem), completely understand that food is very subjective and in particular in how we try to describe taste, flavour, texture and smell. So, for example, I can now really detect the similarities between the ‘smell’ of the earth and the term ‘earthy’ that describes the ‘flavour’ of many root vegetables, tubers and fungi that originate from within the earth; or very close to it.
Jerusalem artichokes exude that ‘earthiness’ and when looking at food pairing you cannot go wrong with looking at similar ‘earthy’ food types. I have recently discovered the complete and utter affinity that the ‘earthiness’ of truffle (in this case as truffle oil) has with Jerusalem artichoke.
The recipe below is for a Jerusalem artichoke purée which is a wonderfully creamy and citrusy concoction. On its own it can complement many meat dishes, and although the truffle oil is optional, if you have any then please indulge as it takes the purée to another level. If you are very well positioned in life then shavings of black truffle would be Utopian.
For a great insight in to the origins and characteristics of the humble Jerusalem artichoke (or sunchoke) then check out the post ‘Jerusalem Artichoke aka Sunchokes’ on Duck and Roses.
4 comments
I have always stayed clear of jerusalem artichokes, not knowing what to do with them. I am however, always willing to learn and on that basis, am planning to make this very soon, Nick, to serve as you suggest.
Hey Lin,
They are a little ‘unusual’ in that they have not much in the way of anything similar – I guess celeriac for the ‘earthiness’. This way of cooking them gives you creaminess and zesty acidity whilst still being able to pick up the artichoke’s distinct flavour. As I say, if you have truffle oil (or even better truffles 🙂 ) then it lifts it to another level. Good luck – let me know how you get on.
Thanks Nick
p.s. I am going to post a salad recipe with grilled artichokes soon.
I’m guessing the 300 ml is a typo? 300 ml of oil? Wonder if you can clarify because I’d love to try this. At a restaurant I used to work with they cooked them in heavy cream, no oil
Hi there Alyson. Thank you for your comment.
No, the 300ml is not a typo. It does seem a lot of oil but the 1.5kg of Artichokes in this recipe is more than sufficient to absorb this amount of oil, giving them an incredibly smooth and velvety finish. I have made a version with single and double cream and the results were good, but this version, in my humble opinion of course 🙂 takes the puree to another level. I would love to know how you get on.